Higüey

 

Recently I went with my neighbors and members of the local Catholic church to the Basilica at Higüey. The Virgen de la Altagracia (Virgin of Highest Grace) is the patron saint of the Dominican Republic. Her legend goes back to the Spanish occupation, when two men brought a painting of Our Lady of Altagracia with them to the Dominican Republic. The painting of the Saint disappeared, and miraculously was said to reappear in an orange tree in Higüey. It was at this location that the first church at Higüey was built. Now thousands of devoted visitors make the trek here to deposit offerings and to ask favors of the Mother of Christ. Dominicans pray to her for miracles and cures and for intercession for whatever troubles them. Las Noches de Vela/ the Nights of Prayer is celebrated the night before Altagracia Day. Altagracia Day is celebrated every year on January 21. This celebration is a blend of African religions and Catholicism. Dominicans recite prayers, play African influenced music, sing hymns and dance. 

I spent the equivalent of $12 in pesos and sat on a bus for six hours on a Sunday (we started out at 6:00 am) to make the trip. Some of the journey was beautiful because of the drive along the coast past San Pedro de Macoris. However, much of our trip was through the dry, unattractive central Northeastern part of the country, where the province of Altagracia is located. I'm glad I have first hand knowledge of this great Dominican tradition, yet one pilgrimage is enough for me! Every year more than 800,000 people make the pilgrimage to the Basílica of Altagracia in Higüey.

Above are some of my traveling companions, having at last arrived at the end of our journey. We are surrounded by tour buses, as you can see, and there were many others in the parking lot.  The city of Higüey presently thrives chiefly on tourism, with many of its inhabitants employed in the hotel complexes of Punta Cana, a few kilometers away.

Higüey's concrete basilica was designed by two prominent French architects and built in 1972. It is characterized by representations of oranges, symbolic of the nearby orange grove where a vision of the Virgin Mary has become legend.

There's a shrine depicting an orange tree and stained-glass windows with cutouts shaped like oranges inside the cathedral, where you can climb the stairs of the sanctuary and touch the encased icon of the Virgen de la Altagracia, patron saint of the Dominican Republic.

This photo is the view from the basilica from the front. At the right is the long line of pilgrims awaiting their turn to kiss the hands of the encased portrait of the Saint. Pope John Paul II visited the Basilica in Higüey when he came to the island January 25, 1979.

Having survived the pilgrimage to Higüey and a bout of bronchitis worsened by the air conditioning on the tour bus, I am alive in Santo Domingo. Above is a photo of the lovely woman (named Sonia), from whom I purchase most of the lechosa (papaya) that I eat. This Haitian woman has been at this fruit stand for many years, my neighbor tells me. She always gives me great big hugs after peeling the papaya I buy from her, which is the real reason I visit her every few days! She is my personal Lady of Highest Grace. I'll take a pilgrimage to see her any day over going all the way to a concrete basilica at Higüey. 

Happily, I ran into Sonia at Villa Mella's own carnival event, which was held yesterday. Last year I took more photos of the Carnival events and actually went to La Vega for the premier carnival celebration in the country. Frankly, I had much more energy last year for taking photos (my first year in this country) then I do presently, probably due to the daily grind of living in an impoverished country. Also, I've had a cold and a cough that seemed to last forever. I haven't been sick in years, so getting a cold in a tropical country came as a surprise.  I've had to stay away from the school and tutoring the children for a few weeks. I look forward to returning now that I am better.

Yesterday's parade in North Santo Domingo, while rather a rag-tag affair, was enjoyable because of going with a friend, and seeing many of the youngsters from the neighborhood. They all value limited opportunities for dressing up in costumes and sharing a festive spirit. Below is just one shot of a group of young people in the parade I found appealing. I'll close with this picture. Thank you for taking the time to view my photos and read this blog. Best wishes for the coming month!